If you’re planning to import a car from Japan through an auction, the first thing you need is clarity. Japanese car auctions are fast-paced and full of abbreviations, grades, and symbols that can confuse beginners—and even cost you money if misunderstood.
To help you get started with confidence, here are the essential auction terms you must know before placing your first bid.
📋 1. Auction Sheet (Inspection Sheet)
A document that gives a full overview of the car’s condition.
It includes:
Vehicle grade
Interior and exterior condition
Mileage (odometer reading)
Accident or repair history
Notes from the inspector
✅ Always review this sheet before bidding!
🏅 2. Auction Grade
The overall quality rating of the car based on condition.
| Grade | Meaning |
|---|---|
| 5 | Like new condition (rare) |
| 4.5 | Excellent condition |
| 4 | Very good, minor wear |
| 3.5 | Average condition |
| 3 | Some noticeable damage |
| 2 | Poor condition |
| 1 | Heavily modified or damaged |
| R (RA) | Accident repaired |
| A | Aftermarket parts (modified) |
👉 A 4 or higher is usually safe for importers.
🎯 3. Start Price / Starting Bid
The minimum price at which the auction will start.
This is not always the reserve price and can be lower than what the seller wants.
🛑 4. Reserve Price
The lowest price the seller is willing to accept.
If bidding doesn’t reach this, the car may not be sold—even if there are bids.
⏱ 5. Proxy Bidding
Also called automatic bidding, this allows you to set your maximum price, and the system will bid for you incrementally.
Ideal for beginners or people in different time zones.
📍 6. Chassis Number / VIN
The unique vehicle identification number used to verify the car’s history and match it with export documents.
Always cross-check this with:
Auction sheet
Export certificate
Vehicle photos
🚘 7. Mileage (走行距離 – Soukou Kyori)
Total kilometers driven, listed on the auction sheet.
Make sure it’s verified and not marked as “unverified” or “tampered.”
💥 8. Accident History (修復歴 – Shufukureki)
If a car has been in a serious accident and repaired, it’s marked as:
R or RA: Repaired accident car
A1, A2, etc. on the diagram for scratches/damage
You can still buy these, but know the risks and resale impact.
🧩 9. Condition Markings on Diagrams
Auction sheets have car diagrams with codes like:
| Code | Meaning |
|---|---|
| A1 | Small scratch |
| A3 | Large scratch |
| U1 | Small dent |
| U3 | Large dent |
| Y1 | Small crack (glass) |
| W1 | Wave/uneven panel |
| XX | Replaced part |
| X | Needs replacement |
Learn these to understand where and how badly the car is damaged.
🚚 10. FOB Price (Free on Board)
The cost of the car including local Japanese charges, ready to be shipped.
It does not include shipping, import duties, or customs fees in your country.
💡 Bonus: Other Useful Terms
Inspection Date – When the vehicle was last checked by auction staff
Grade A/B/C (Interior) – Interior quality (A = Excellent, C = Worn)
Unsold / Passed – Car didn’t meet the reserve price
Export Certificate – Needed for international shipping & import clearance
✅ Final Thoughts
Understanding auction terms is the first step toward smart bidding. These words and codes may seem confusing at first, but once you learn them, you’ll be able to:
Read auction sheets like a pro
Spot red flags before bidding
Make better purchase decisions
